Bespoke and Beautiful: Tailoring a Path to Authentic Self-Expression
As a 6’7” autistic trans woman, my journey of self-discovery and expression through fashion has been a challenging one. As much as I may have wanted to experiment with women’s clothing, to drape myself in the colours, fabrics, and styles that felt true to my identity, it’s never been an option. At my height, the options available to me were limited at best (and very expensive), and nonexistent at worst. The fashion industry’s narrow sizing standards, which cater to a small range of heights and proportions, left me feeling excluded and invisible.
When I finally found the courage to come out as trans, I did so without a single stitch of women’s clothing to my name. The decision to reveal my authentic self to the world couldn’t wait for the perfect outfit; it was a matter of survival, of living my truth no matter the obstacles. But as I navigated this new chapter of my life, the lack of clothing options that fit my body and my identity weighed heavily on me. Every day spent in masculine attire feels like a denial of my true self, a reminder of the ways in which society fails to accommodate and celebrate the beautiful diversity of human bodies and experiences.
As a trans woman, I know all too well the pain of feeling like an outsider in one’s own skin. The fashion industry’s exclusionary sizing practices only compound this sense of alienation, making it difficult for those of us who fall outside the narrow “norm” to find clothes that make us feel seen, validated, and beautiful. It’s a problem that affects not just trans women, but anyone whose body doesn’t conform to the industry’s limited standards.
But I refuse to let these challenges define me or hold me back. As I continue on this journey of self-discovery and expression, I am determined to find ways to create the wardrobe of my dreams, one that reflects my unique identity and style. Whether that means seeking out inclusive brands (are there any?), learning to sew my own garments, or advocating for change within the fashion industry itself, I am committed to finding a way to express myself authentically through fashion.
It’s time for the fashion industry to recognise the harmful impact of its narrow sizing practices and to embrace a more inclusive approach to design. By expanding their size ranges, offering more options for tall and petite individuals, and considering the unique needs of trans and gender nonconforming customers, brands can create clothing that celebrates the beautiful diversity of the human form. As a statistician and a fashion enthusiast, I believe that data-driven insights and a commitment to inclusivity can revolutionise the way we think about clothing and identity. It’s time to demand change, not just for myself, but for all those who have been left out and marginalised by the fashion industry’s limited vision of who deserves to feel beautiful and confident in their own skin.
The Problem with Standard Sizing
The fashion industry’s approach to sizing has long been a source of frustration and exclusion for many women, particularly those whose bodies don’t conform to the narrow “normal distribution” that brands use as their standard. This distribution, which typically focuses on a height range of 5’4” to 5’8”, fails to account for the vast diversity of women’s bodies and proportions. By catering to such a limited segment of the population, the industry effectively ignores the needs and desires of countless women who fall outside of this arbitrary norm.
Even within the “normal” range, women’s bodies come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, with different proportions of torso length, leg length, and overall height. However, the industry’s sizing practices often fail to take these variations into account, resulting in garments that fit poorly and feel uncomfortable for many women. The problem is only compounded for those who are taller or shorter than the standard range, as the options available to them are even more limited and ill-fitting.
For tall women, the industry’s “tall” sizing options often fall short of their needs. Whilst some brands offer extended inseam lengths, they rarely make corresponding adjustments to the torso length of their garments. As a result, tall women are left with tops that are too short, dresses that hit at an awkward length, and pants that don’t accommodate their longer rise. Similarly, petite women often find that the industry’s “petite” sizes are simply shorter versions of the standard sizes, with no consideration for the unique proportions of their bodies. This can lead to garments that are too wide in the shoulders, too long in the torso, or too baggy in the waist, even if the length is correct.
The industry’s reliance on a standard 27” inseam is another example of how its sizing practices fail to serve the needs of a diverse range of women. This arbitrary length, which is based on the proportions of an “average-height woman,” doesn't take into account the wide variations in leg length that exist among women of all heights. For tall women, a 27” inseam is often comically short, while for petite women, it can be excessively long. This lack of variation in inseam lengths means that women are forced to compromise on fit and comfort, settling for garments that are either too short or too long for their bodies.
For trans women, the problems with standard sizing are even more acute. Trans women may have physical characteristics that differ from those of cisgender women, such as broader shoulders, narrower hips, or longer torsos. These differences can make it incredibly difficult to find clothing that fits well and feels comfortable, particularly in an industry that bases its sizing on a narrow conception of womanhood. As a result, trans women often feel excluded and alienated from the world of fashion, unable to find garments that affirm their identities and make them feel beautiful in their own skin.
The consequences of these exclusionary sizing practices go beyond mere inconvenience or frustration. For many women, particularly those who are trans or gender nonconforming, the inability to find clothing that fits and feels authentic can be a source of deep emotional pain and dysphoria. It sends a message that their bodies are not worthy of being seen, celebrated, or catered to by the fashion industry, and that they must conform to a narrow, arbitrary standard of beauty in order to be accepted. This is a harmful and destructive message that has no place in a world that claims to value diversity, inclusivity, and self-expression.
A Statistical Lens on Sizing
As a statistician and former forensic analyst who has taught courses on statistical reasoning, I can’t help but view the fashion industry’s sizing practices through a quantitative lens. The concepts of distributions, means, and standard deviations that I once used to analyse crime scene data can be just as easily applied to the world of clothing design, revealing the flaws and biases that underlie the industry’s current sizing norms.
When we examine the distribution of women’s bodies in the population, it becomes clear that the fashion industry’s “normal” size range is based on a narrow and skewed sample. By focusing on a limited height range and a specific set of proportions, brands are effectively ignoring the vast majority of women who fall outside of these parameters. This is akin to conducting a study with a biased sample and then generalising the results to the entire population - a practice that any statistician would recognise as flawed and misleading.
Moreover, the industry’s reliance on a single “standard” size for each garment ignores the concept of variability within a population. Just as no two women have exactly the same height or weight, no two bodies have precisely the same proportions or measurements. By assuming that all women within a given size category have the same shape and dimensions, the industry is failing to account for the natural diversity of the human form. This is a classic example of the dangers of relying on a measure of central tendency, such as the mean, without considering the spread of the data.
As a high school statistics teacher, I often challenge my students to question the assumptions and biases that underlie the data they encounter in their daily lives. The same critical lens can be applied to the fashion industry’s sizing practices, revealing the ways in which they reinforce harmful stereotypes and exclude marginalised groups. By basing their sizes on a narrow conception of the “ideal” female body, brands are sending a message that only certain types of women are worthy of being dressed and celebrated. This bias is particularly harmful to trans women, whose bodies may not conform to the industry’s cisnormative standards.
The solution to these problems lies in a data-driven approach to clothing design that prioritises inclusivity and diversity. By collecting and analysing data on a wide range of women’s bodies, brands can create sizing systems that better reflect the actual distribution of shapes and sizes in the population. This approach would require a shift away from the industry’s current reliance on a single “normal” size range and towards a more flexible and adaptable system that can accommodate a wider variety of bodies.
In my previous career, I often used statistical techniques to identify patterns and anomalies in complex data sets. The same principles can be applied to the world of fashion, using data analysis to identify gaps in the current sizing system and to develop new standards that are more inclusive and equitable. By examining the distribution of women’s body measurements and proportions, brands can create size charts that are based on actual data rather than arbitrary assumptions or ideals.
Ultimately, the power of statistics lies in its ability to reveal hidden biases and to challenge the status quo. By applying a quantitative lens to the fashion industry’s sizing practices, we can advocate for a more inclusive and diverse approach to clothing design that celebrates the beauty and variability of all women's bodies. As a statistician, a teacher, and an autistic trans woman (I do so love saying that), I believe that this kind of data-driven activism has the potential to transform the industry and to create a world where everyone feels seen, valued, and celebrated for who they are.
My Trans Experience of Shopping for Clothes
As an autistic trans woman, my experience of navigating the world of fashion and clothing is a constant reminder of how ill-equipped the industry is to cater to my unique needs and identity. Every morning, as I struggle to piece together an outfit from my old, ill-fitting masculine wardrobe, I am confronted with the harsh reality of how far I have yet to go in my journey of self-expression and self-acceptance.
The clothes that I currently wear are not just physically uncomfortable, but emotionally suffocating. Each baggy shirt and shapeless pair of pants feels like a denial of my true self, a suffocating mask that I am forced to wear in order to move through the world. The coarse, heavy fabrics and rough seams are a constant assault on my sensory sensitivities, leaving me feeling drained and on edge before I even leave the house.
But even more painful than the physical discomfort is the sense of disconnect and dysphoria that comes from being unable to currently express my femininity through my clothing. As an autistic person, I rely heavily on routines and visual cues to make sense of the world around me. The act of getting dressed is not just a practical necessity, but a deeply important ritual of self-care and self-affirmation. When I am forced to wear clothing that does not align with my gender identity, it throws my entire sense of self into chaos.
I long for the day when I can open my closet and see a wardrobe that reflects the woman I know myself to be. I dream of soft, flowing fabrics that will caress my skin instead of attacking it, of colors and patterns that will bring me joy instead of shame. I fantasise about the confidence and ease that will come from finally being able to move through the world in clothing that fits and feels like me.
But as an autistic trans woman, I know that the journey to building that wardrobe will be a long and complex one, fraught with sensory challenges and frustrating compromises. I know that I will have to navigate a fashion industry that is not designed with my body or my brain in mind, one that will require me to constantly advocate for my own needs and desires.
And yet, despite the overwhelming obstacles that lie ahead, I refuse to give up on my dream of self-expression through fashion. I know that somewhere out there, there are clothes that will make me feel beautiful, confident, and authentically myself. I know that with persistence and creativity, I can find ways to clothe myself to fit my unique needs and sensitivities.
Most importantly, I know that I am not alone in this journey. There is a growing community of neurodivergent and gender-diverse individuals who are pushing back against the narrow norms and expectations of mainstream fashion, who are creating their own spaces and resources for self-expression and self-care. Through connecting with these communities and learning from their experiences, I am slowly building the knowledge and the courage to take control of my own style and identity (I’m going from sewing to tailoring … and it’s amazing).
So for now, I will continue to wear my old, ill-fitting masculine clothes, knowing that they are a temporary necessity on the path to becoming my true self. I will use my discomfort and my dysphoria as fuel for my creativity and my determination. And I will hold fast to the belief that some day very soon, I will look in the mirror and see a reflection that matches the woman I know myself to be - not just in my heart and my mind, but in every fiber of my being.
Envisioning a More Inclusive Fashion Industry
As I envision a more inclusive future for the fashion industry, I see a world where clothing is designed to fit and celebrate the incredible diversity of human bodies and experiences. It’s a world where the narrow, one-size-fits-most approach of the past has been replaced by a new paradigm of inclusive sizing and customisation, one that recognises and honors the unique needs and proportions of every individual.
At the heart of this vision is a fundamental shift in the way that clothing is designed and produced. Rather than starting with a single, standardised size and then scaling up or down to create a limited range of options, inclusive fashion starts with the understanding that every body is unique and deserving of clothing that fits and feels good. This means moving beyond the arbitrary distinctions of “straight” and “plus” sizes, and instead creating a continuum of sizes that can accommodate the full spectrum of human shapes and sizes.
One way to achieve this is by taking a page from the world of bespoke tailoring, where clothing is created to fit the precise measurements and proportions of each individual client. Whilst the bespoke model may not be practical or affordable for mass-produced clothing, the principles of customisation and attention to individual fit can still be applied on a larger scale.
Imagine a system where customers could input their unique measurements - height, bust, waist, hips, inseam, arm length, and so on - into a digital database, which would then generate a personalised size and fit profile. This profile could be used to create clothing that is tailored to the specific proportions and needs of each individual, whether they are tall or petite, curvy or straight, or anywhere in between.
But size and fit are only one part of the equation when it comes to creating truly inclusive fashion. Designers must also consider the unique needs and preferences of different body types, abilities, and cultures. This means creating clothing that is not only physically comfortable and well-fitting, but also emotionally validating and affirming.
For example, as a tall, autistic trans woman with a love for vintage-inspired “closet core” with a Scottish country mom vibe, my ideal wardrobe would include pieces that celebrate my statuesque height and my feminine curves, whilst also honoring my sensory sensitivities and my cultural heritage. I dream of soft, natural fabrics in rich, natural tones, with plenty of flowing silhouettes and delicate details that make me feel graceful and at ease in my own skin.
But my vision of inclusive fashion goes beyond just catering to my own personal style preferences. It's about creating a fashion landscape that celebrates the incredible diversity of human experience, one where every person can find clothing that makes them feel seen, validated, and celebrated for who they are.
This means (perhaps in the future) designing for a wide range of body types, abilities, and identities, from “plus-size” and “petite” women to people with disabilities and non-binary individuals. It means creating clothing that is not only functional and comfortable, but also stylish and expressive, allowing people to show up in the world as their most authentic and confident selves.
As such, my vision of an inclusive fashion industry is one that recognises and honours the inherent worth and beauty of every human being. It’s a world where clothing is not just a practical necessity, but a powerful tool for self-expression and self-love. By designing for diversity and creating clothing that celebrates the unique qualities of every individual, we can create a fashion landscape that is not only more inclusive, but also more joyful, more creative, and more authentically human.
As a fashion enthusiast and a fierce advocate for inclusivity, I am committed to using my voice and my platform to push for change in the industry. I will continue to speak out about the importance of inclusive sizing, diverse representation, and designing for a wide range of needs and identities. And I will use my own personal style and self-expression as a way of modeling the kind of fashion landscape that I want to see in the world - one where every body is celebrated, and every person feels seen and valued for exactly who they are.
From Frustration to Creation: My Journey to Design
As a lifelong lover of the arts and a fierce advocate for inclusivity, I have spent countless hours searching for clothing that fits my unique body and identity. But as an autistic trans woman with sensory sensitivities and a hard-to-fit figure, I have often found myself frustrated and discouraged by the limited options available in mainstream fashion. Too many times, I have left dressing rooms feeling deflated and excluded, wondering if I would ever find clothes that made me feel truly seen and celebrated (and so many Amazon returns later …)
But rather than continuing to wait for the fashion industry to catch up to my needs, as you know, I have decided to take matters into my own hands and create the clothing of my dreams. As a statistician and a lifelong learner, I am uniquely positioned to leverage my skills and experiences to inform my design process and create a wardrobe that not only fits my body, but also celebrates my identity.
Growing up, I was fortunate to have a family who recognised the challenges of finding clothing that fit my larger frame. My maternal aunt and grandmother would often make pants and shorts for me, ensuring that I had comfortable and well-fitting options. These early experiences with custom clothing planted a seed in my mind, one that would later blossom into a passion for inclusive fashion.
Now, as I embark on my journey to create my own clothes, I am drawing on those early lessons and elevating my basic sewing skills through tailoring classes. I am learning the art and science of creating garments that are not only beautifully crafted, but also perfectly fitted to the unique contours of the human body.
At the same time, I am leveraging my background in statistics and my love of mathematics to inform my design process. By collecting and analysing data on a wide range of body types and measurements, I am working to create a sizing system that is truly inclusive and representative of the diversity of the human form. I am using my knowledge of distributions, means, and standard deviations to challenge the narrow norms of the fashion industry and create clothing that celebrates the unique qualities of every individual.
As I work to bring my vision to life, I am starting with a project that is deeply personal and meaningful to me: creating my own work wardrobe for the upcoming school year. As a special education teacher, I know firsthand the importance of feeling confident, comfortable, and authentic in the classroom. I am drawing on my love of vintage-inspired, Scottish-heritage “cottage / closet core” aesthetics to create a collection of pieces that will make me feel both professionally polished and personally expressive.
From tailored trousers in rich, earthy tweeds to soft, flowing blouses in delicate floral prints, my work wardrobe will be a reflection of my unique identity and style. I am incorporating sensory-friendly fabrics and construction techniques, ensuring that every piece is not only beautiful, but also comfortable and easy to wear. And I am using my skills in pattern-making and fitting to create garments that are perfectly tailored to my own body (but giving it a bit of room to grow and shift 😊), celebrating my curves and my statuesque height.
But my journey to design is about more than just creating clothing for myself. It is about using my personal experiences and identity to drive innovation and change in the fashion industry. By sharing my process and my creations with the world, I hope to inspire others to embrace their own unique qualities and to demand more from the brands and designers they support.
I believe that fashion has the power to be a tool for self-expression, self-love, and social change. By creating clothing that celebrates diversity and inclusivity, we can challenge the narrow beauty standards and cultural norms that have long excluded so many people from the joy and creativity of personal style. We can create a world where every person feels seen, valued, and celebrated for exactly who they are.
As I continue on this journey, I am filled with a sense of excitement and purpose. I know that the road ahead will be challenging, but I also know that every stitch, every seam, and every design choice is a step towards a more inclusive and authentic fashion landscape. And I cannot wait to see where this journey will take me, both personally and professionally.